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Clarifying
some of Sean Penn’s findings in Iran.
I
am an American and a frequent visitor to Iran. I made a trip shortly after
Sean Penn’s articles were published in the Chronicle and wrote this as a
clarification of some of his findings.
Fingerprinting
at the airport:
Contrary to Penn’s report, Iran does not fingerprint American as
they enter the country. In fact their process for border crossing has not
changed in the five years I have traveled there. They may fingerprint
journalists, but not the average American visitor. They do hold up
Americans aside while they check visas, but the whole thing takes 10
minutes compared to the three hours Iranian citizens are held entering
USA. Iranian security officials always wave me past secondary checkpoints,
never frisk me and always say welcome to my country (in Farsi).
Toilets:
I apologize for having to discuss this. But yes, as Sean pointed out, the
men's room in the International terminal is consistently foul. I think
using a public toilet on a rural road guarantees you a place in heaven.
But Penn’s description of the "Iranian toilet" as a
"hole-in-the-ground" is to overlook these traditional toilets
are fully flushable and are far more sanitary than the American equivalent.
Many Iranian homes have a traditional Iranian toilet, an "American
style" toilet, and a French style bidet.
Women
& makeup:
Contrary to Sean’s observation, women, as they prepare to leave the
airplane, are not removing makeup and drabbing themselves down; they are adjusting
their appearance from one that is popular and acceptable in America,
to one that is popular and acceptable in Iran. Women in Iran wear plenty
of makeup, more than Americans, fancy jewelry and eyewear. When they leave
the airplane, they are generally wearing more make up.
Smoking
in the Airport:
Penn said he was singled out and asked to stop smoking in the airport. It
was not because he was American. Smoking in the airport is prohibited, but
many Iranians will sneak a smoke between getting off the plane, and
passing security. The reason they singled out Penn was that he did not
know when to light up, when to puff and when to put it out. And, everyone
in the room was paying attention to the famous American visitor -- when he
lite up, everyone saw him do so.
Suspicious
Eyes:
Iranians at the airport were not eyeing Penn with suspicion. They are
curious since you are the first American they have seen in months, and a
familiar one at that. I get the same look on every visit. Iranians do not
flash smiles or cheerful looks at strangers like the typical Californian.
They are reserved – more business like – in public (waiting in line or
driving an auto are notable exceptions). But if you smile at them, every
man will bow very slightly, put hand to heart and say welcome (in Farsi).
You learn to read these expressions and are warmed by each interaction.
Women
and Scarves:
Firstly, it is the law and therefore unavoidable. The more religious and
school age girls (when dressed in their school uniforms) cover the whole
of their hair. The rest treat it as a fashion-accessory, wear beautiful
(often glittery) makeup, fashionable sunglasses and expose the front 1/2
of their hair. After a month in Iran, you stop seeing it as a bland
faceless environment and can distinguish the myriad of fashion
expressions. Most women under 30 wear tight denim jeans with fancy
buckles. There is no lack of attractiveness in Iran; it just takes a few
weeks to adjust your eyes. Scarves come off indoors and for photographs
(unless in public). But yes, it is discriminatory.
Visiting
Iran:
Contrary to official statements, Iran is a wonderful, safe and welcoming
place for Americans to visit. You will find lots of inconveniences regarding
language; social customs and driving. But honestly, a common statement
made to me is “tell your American friends that we love them”. |